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I gots a funky idea!
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daikenkai =[
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20. PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh, i forgot, i did fill it in. It looks just like a normal ddr pad EXCEPT for a few things:

its wooden, has no decals or sheetmetal yet
there are some gaps over 1/2 inch. I can fix it easily, will do firt thing after school tommorow.
it uses sooo much ducttape.

yes, i did fill the middle. The button recess is about 1/3 inch, with lucite it will be about 1/4
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DarkCore
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21. PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can we expect any updated pictures of your pad?
I'd love to see what it's like; I may consider making a DIY platform.
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daikenkai =[
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22. PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote





Here it is! I'm gonna call Regal Plastrics about their clear plastic polymers. Meanwhile, I will find sources of sheetmetal. Anyone here know any retail chains (like home depot, lowes) that sell sheetmetal?
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slvrshdw
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23. PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya, home depot and lowes both sell sheet metal

but, is it for the contact system..or the looks of the top panels?
if its just for looks, just get aluminum flashing, and if its gotta carry an electrical charge, get the normal flashing (thats what i did)

the aluminum looks really nice on the pad...soo shiny
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daikenkai =[
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24. PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a new controller, and it works! except its a old ps1 controller, it doesnt even have the analog sticks, so while playing my ddr demo, i had to switch my ps2 controlle rin till i get to the ddr game part. Then, at the game, since it doesnt sense dualshock controllers, i can play wth my ps1-powered pad!

i cant wait till i get a ddr game!

does anyone know of any ddr games for ps2 that allow the use of a original stick-less controller. I wanna know, so i dont get bummed out.
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ceraf
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25. PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you could try wiring the pad to the arrow buttons on the controller
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daikenkai =[
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26. PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nah, thats not the problem. well, m mom iwll buy me a game on saturday, she gets her paycheck, yay
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daikenkai =[
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27. PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ivebeen practicing, on the demo (thats jsut sad, lol), on beginner (omg, imaloser, lol), but now ive gooten to get As on Light! w00t!

Im gettng supplies tommorow
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ChilliumBromide
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28. PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got reminded today of how much softpads suck.
I played on some Intec ones; I eventually gave up on attempting decent scores and decided to freestyle instead.

My new mission in life: get everyone who shows interest in DDR inexpensive, funtional metal pads.
I'm working on a design now that should run for about $35-45 per pad.
Oh yeah, and it's also quite portable.
The arrow panels are removable, so you can take them out and put them in a carrying bag, then the base has a handle and no long cords, so you can pick it up and carry it. (I'm thinking of using pine for the base, because it's light and reasonably strong, but I want to check prices first.)
I plan on making no patents of any sort on this one, so expect to see designs for it soon, and feel free to try putting one or two together yourself! (for person use, for your friends, or even to sell, I don't care.)
Note though that this won't be commercially produced by me or anyone who I know. If anyone ever has a company that wants to produce it commercially, they can negotiate with me about developing patents, but don't go doing it yourself, because that's not entirely legal.
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daikenkai =[
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29. PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 4:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh, my pad so far is running 27 dollar,s expected to go, yes, 35 to 45 bux. The mainr eason why is cuz it uses an easy and cheap system, which i like to call Ductape
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ceraf
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30. PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PooingCavy wrote:
oh, my pad so far is running 27 dollar,s expected to go, yes, 35 to 45 bux. The mainr eason why is cuz it uses an easy and cheap system, which i like to call Ductape


duct tape ftw. made my life a heck of a lot easier. =)



dancing tofu, i like that idea. although needing to secure so many panel interconnections is going to be tough...and the wiring. it may get a little over budget too.
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daikenkai =[
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31. PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ack!

guys, what ever you do, do NOT use aluminum foil contacts. Ive been using mine for only a week on beginner/light, and the reason why its been getting buggier is cuz soem of the contacts are ripping apart, and causing shorts. Im gonna wait to get some sheetmetal. Will aluminum flashign work.
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daikenkai =[
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32. PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok.. I stripped the entire sensor and uder-button area all out, and ive starte dhte reprocessing now...

Now, there iwll be no tubing.. instead its replaced with puzzle-piece foam sides. 1 on 2 out of three interirior edges, and then a strip of foam along th open edge.

Now, ther ductape used to secure it down will no longer be used. Im getting some velcro tommorow to hold it down. That way, if i ever need to clean or replace the sesors, i just need to open it with that.

Then ,instead of aluminum foil, it will use sheetmetal contacts,whic sit on 4 wood things. The entire top of the panel will be the common connection, the entire bottom of the panel will be directional.
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ceraf
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33. PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PooingCavy wrote:
ack!

guys, what ever you do, do NOT use aluminum foil contacts. Ive been using mine for only a week on beginner/light, and the reason why its been getting buggier is cuz soem of the contacts are ripping apart, and causing shorts. Im gonna wait to get some sheetmetal. Will aluminum flashign work.



y'know, that's pretty much what happened with my pad. hehe....not only that, i got powdered aluminum everywhere. aluminum foil = bleh
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daikenkai =[
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34. PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh poop!

ok, i got the aluminum flashing, for botht he contacts, and for the look/cover for the diagonal and center parts. However, after finishing the part for the diagonal/center parts, when i tested out a switch for it, it didnt work. it was bleh. i found out that aluminum does not conduct. erg. Oh well, ill just be soda cans, as one member stated
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slvrshdw
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35. PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh gr..

ive said in alot of other posts the aluminum flashing DOES NOT conduct, but i guess you missed it frown.gif

normal flashing does work tho
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ChilliumBromide
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36. PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PooingCavy wrote:
oh poop!

ok, i got the aluminum flashing, for botht he contacts, and for the look/cover for the diagonal and center parts. However, after finishing the part for the diagonal/center parts, when i tested out a switch for it, it didnt work. it was bleh. i found out that aluminum does not conduct. erg. Oh well, ill just be soda cans, as one member stated
I was the one who suggested aluminum cans.
If you do them, cut of the top and bottom, then push your can flat, and slowly cut that apart. That'll give you a clean edge, at least 50% around.
However, this is not a permanent solution; I just did it because the foil tape on one of my few uncracked arrows was too torn up to function properly.
If you can get it, copper sheet works VERY well.
But try to get some that's adhesive on one side, unless you have some good double-sided tabe.

Ceraf: The panels should be secure, although I may continue to tweak the design very slightly in order to make them more secure.
I'll see if I can get the scanner working tomorrow and try to show you some of the sketches I've done so far.
Also, I have about $30 in my budget now; if I can get another $80, I should be able to build 4 pads. (2 for me, 1 for my friend Steven, and 1 for my friend Meg).
The issue is that the only place that sells good sheet steel at an affordable price is Home Depot, and they only sell it in cartons of 12 3' x 2' sheets.
Wires should be cheap, although I might have to pay a little more for rubber-coated wires, and I'll be using Maple for the wood. The only remaining ingredient is 1/8" lexan squares. (10" x 10" with 9" x 9" holes in the middle; one of the key ingredients.
If I can get them precut, it shouldn't be too spendy.
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daikenkai =[
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37. PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

been a while since the upates...

ive given up on making a sensor. im gonna use some mircoswitches instead.
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ceraf
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38. PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

make sure the microswitch can withstand a lot of force.


aww, i was hoping for a final product....keep us posted!
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39. PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was grounded for a week for getting my first C (usually a straight a.. 10 out of the 35 GT english ppl got a F, D, or a C), and i was unable to work on my dancepad. So anyways, does any here know any retailers of microswitches.
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